Located just an hour off Phuket’s northeast coast is the friendly island of Koh Yao Noi, one of Thailand’s hidden little luxuries. Bordering Ao Phang-Nga and surrounded by stunning limestone karsts, Koh Yao Noi is a deceptively large island speckled with ancient rubber trees and an assortment of cosy white beaches. However, what makes this island paradise so special is the warm energy that can be felt oozing from the pores of its inhabitants, welcoming foreigners as a new addition to their rather large family.
One of the greatest attributes of Koh Yao Noi is its independence from the mainland, and in turn it’s preservation of traditional culture. A short drive around the island will expose the untainted natural and cultural beauty on offer. From a plethora of unique flora and fauna and a scattering of small islands lining the sparkling blue horizon, to steep mountains of rubber trees and quaint wooden houses surrounding lush green fields and rice paddies, there truly is a unique energy to this culturally dense community.
Despite the natural beauty of Koh Yao Noi the true attraction lies in the welcoming smiles of its people. From arriving at the friendly port to waving that last goodbye, you will feel as if you have arrived at a new home. And indeed, one of the first things Westerners notice are the keys trustingly left hanging from the ignition of the local motorbikes.
Friendly locals offer fresh fruit to tourists
While staying at Koh Yao Noi you can take full advantage of the pristine waters by enrolling in scuba diving lessons, or merely hire a kayak and a pair of snorkels to explore the island’s undisturbed aquatic playground.
While staying on Koh Yao Noi it is important to remember that the local inhabitants have lived on this island for generations, and over 90% of families are of Muslim descent. This means that certain cultural values must be catered for (such as males wearing shirts with a sleeve and women keeping their clothes on while sun bathing). Although these rules may seem foreign to many travellers, and they are, following these simple guidelines will ensure the respect of the island’s local inhabitants and a far more culturally enriching experience.
Whether you are staying in Phuket or Krabi it is extremely easy to arrange a ferry to Koh Yao Noi.
From Krabi Town
From Krabi to Koh Yao Noi you will get a ferry from Ao Thalane pier. To get to the pier you can catch a taxi, or for a cheaper and far more cultural option you may want to board the songtheow local bus from Krabi bus station. From Au Thalane pier the ferry will take around 2-3 hours and will cost THB 120-150 ($5-6 AUS). There are three ferries per day, leaving at 10am, 11am and 1pm.
From Phuket
From Phuket to Koh Yao Noi you will catch a ferry from Bang Rong pier, and the journey should take around 80 minutes. Alternatively, you may catch a speed boat which is far quicker though more expensive. The ferry and speed boat times change quite frequently, and it is recommended to check a day prior to departure for the most accurate schedule.
Belgium born Olivier Van den Bogaert talks about the difficulties and triumphs of starting a new life in Cambodia
A double shot of motivation. One small pinch of courage. A splash of resolution and a slice of adventure to top it off.
To me, it seems like starting a new life in a foreign country is much like making a good cocktail-without the proper ingredients the outcome will usually fall devastatingly short of your expectations. It takes a certain set of motivations and characteristics to make that leap from comfort and familiarity to a world of uncertainty, with the hope of finding a new life (while taking the risk of finding nothing at all).
How many times have you caught yourself dreaming about a new life in an exotic location? A fresh start to revitalise that adventurous spirit you once felt-or perhaps to maintain the adventurous spirit that you were lucky enough to have held onto. Unfortunately, it seems that very few of us actually succeed in making the difficult transition from fantasy to reality. We find refuge in the all too familiar “I wish I had your courage…”, “I have too many responsibilities” and “One day…”
But will that day ever come?
For Belgium born Olivier Van den Bogaert leaving the country he called ‘home’ was a hard decision, though was one that he had been dreaming about for many years. It wasn’t until 2008, after devastatingly losing his job during the financial crisis, that Bogaert’s day finally arrived and he packed his bags with the hope of finding a fresh start in a mysterious, inspiring land known as Cambodia.
Cambodia is a land abundant with beautiful scenery and welcoming smiles, though is also mixed with a past so savage and volatile that it makes you wonder how this joyous culture remains so firmly intact. It is a land of contrasts, and one which was perfectly suited to Bogaert’s conflicting state of mind.
“My life in Belguim was nothing special. The last 10 years I worked as a driver for medical equipment. I was just an ordinary man and for a long time I had wanted to leave my country and find something different and exciting,” said Bogaert.
However, Bogaert’s decision to leave the only life he knew was not an easy one and he soon discovered that resistance to change was a mentality he not only had to address in himself, but also in the people around him.
Bogaert recalls the negativity and lack of support from his friends, as his mother “was the only person that supported my decision. She saw that I was no longer happy and it was time for a radical change. My friends couldn’t believe it and they were trying to keep me there. They would say “what are you going to do when you’re 65?” “What about your pension and healthcare?”
“These questions are all valid. However, it became clear to me that I didn’t want to get stuck in a system like this. I chose freedom and trusted in my own skills and instincts.” Said Bogaert.
It took Bogaert some time to find his stride in the electrifying atmosphere of Siem Reap (home to one of the world’s most spectacular man-made structures, Angkor Wat), though after a number of months he soon discovered the magic of the Cambodian people and it wasn’t long before he met the love of his life, Nahm.
Olly and Nahm find happiness in Kampot
Together, Bogaert and Nahm bought their first motor cycle and set off to explore the country they had seen so little of.
“I planned to do something, somewhere in Cambodia but what and where was a big question mark.” Said Bogeart.
After weeks of travelling they passed through the small town of Kampot, situated between a stunning mountain backdrop and a glorious river system. Little did Bogeart know that this captivating town would soon become his new home.
“When we were first shown the town we saw the beauty of the river. Nahm and I both love the water, and we decided to stay a bit longer in this charming village. The typical French little houses and the laid back vibe really attracted us,” said Bogeart.
It only took three days for Bogeart and Nahm to stumble upon a quaint abandoned house while kayaking down the Tek Chouu River-not too far from town and ten metres from the water’s edge.
“We decided to rent it, and this abandoned house soon became Olly’s Place.” Said Bogeart.
Olly’s Place
Fast forward to 2012 and after two and a half years Olly’s Place has become one of the most popular backpacker accommodations in Cambodia, and with good reason. With quaint wooden bungalows nestled neatly on the shore of a picturesque river, surrounded by towering mangroves and a wonderland for wildlife enthusiasts, you would be hard-pressed to find a better hideaway for such a low price.
However, living the dream does come with its share of inconveniences and it took six months of blood, sweat and tears for Olly’s Place to be opened for business. And even after the stream of backpackers came trickling in it became apparent to Bogeart that running a business in a developing country required a degree of moral flexibility, empathy and patience.
“The Cambodian people are extremely laid back, and anyone who has spent time in this country will know that it is not uncommon for buses to be hours late. However, when trying to open a business it can be problematic when your builders arrive late and finish early every day. This is just the culture you have to get used to!
“We also got to know the police very well, who would come to Olly’s Place and demand extra money for protection. Though once we began to understand the situation in Cambodia we would offer them a couple of beers and wouldn’t see them again.” Said Bogeart.
Paddling the river
As I steady myself on one of Bogeart’s multiple paddle boards in the middle of the spectacular river, I prepare myself for the glorious sunset just beyond the mangroves and suddenly get a strong sense of belonging. I can now understand how Bogaert must have felt two and a half years ago when he swam out to this very spot to watch this same sunset. Or was it a sense of accomplishment, of defying the odds and finding a life that very few are lucky enough to experience?Whatever he felt, it was a moment that changed his life and one that he believes every person should experience.
“Since moving to Cambodia my life has become what I once dreamt it would be, but I had to be honest about what I wanted, and I had to push the ‘What if’s?’ from my mind.
In developing countries such as Cambodia it is extremely easy to set up a business, and it also gives you the opportunity to help a beautiful part of the world that is struggling economically…I believe that if you can adapt yourself to a new way of life it will be the most rewarding experience you will ever have.”
A big thanks to Olly for taking the time to talk to me about his new life in this fanastic country!
Sand In My Sandals 